Caught a plane to Warsaw, Poland today.  Got here and caught a cab to the Radisson hotel where we will meet our tour group tomorrow evening.  We asked the front desk for a lunch recommendation and it was just a couple of blocks away on our same street.  There are flowers in bloom all along the street and the little restaurant had a profusion of flowers, shiny red shutters and a red door.  We sat outside under umbrellas…and it was chilly!  It feels so good not to be burning up…like in Italy.  For lunch, we shared a pork shank with horseradish and grainy mustard, cabbage and mushrooms, crispy small potatoes, potato latkes with freshly made sour cream and some pirogues.  Weren’t wild about the potato stuffed pirogues, but the rest was wonderful!  The pirogues remind me too much of gnocchi…and I really don’t like it.  After the delicious lunch, we went to a big mall that is being remodeled, and found a Thai massage place.  We made an appointment for 5 pm and went back to the hotel to rest a bit.  Had a wonderful massage for an hour and it was only 27.50€…in Polish money.  Quite a bargain.  Food is very inexpensive too.   After the massage, we went to another restaurant and got lamb with tomato sos….that is tomatoe sauce in case you are wondering, with fresh sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, sour cream and a vegetable  latke.   Too much food…but good.   We are back in bed now after a good, hot shower.  Tomorrow morning we are going on a 3 hour tour of the Old,Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Haven’t learned a single word of Polish.  Can’t read any signs.  I’m sure we will manage!

Tonight we went to the restaurant downstairs and they started bringing in the table settings from outside and moving the tables and umbrellas close to the building.  The street was being cleared for the Procession of the Giant statue of the Madonna of Carmine.  This huge statue of Mary and Baby Jesus are enclosed in a huge ex-voto I guess  it would be called….a huge gold wooden frame that surrounds them.  It appears to be at least 20 feet tall and 10-15 feet wide.  The frame is carved with cherubs and has golden rays shooting out around the statues.  Beautiful flower arrangements on two sides in front and all across the back of the frame. They are both richly dressed in lace and have gold crowns on their heads.  First there was a Mass at 5:30 at the church where this statue resides.  Then the procession came down our street.  First came the police cars with lights flashing.  They would block a cross street from traffic cutting thru. Then came hundreds of priests and nuns all saying the Rosary together.  Every now and then the whole procession would stop and a band would play.  It was either a police or military band.  Then people would sing and they would move on.  One priest would ring a bell and the giant statue would  be lowered.  Another bell and it would be raised and moved some more.  The statue was carried by about 20 men – 10 on each side and it was obviously very heavy.  It was very old and very beautiful.  Probably over a thousand people followed behind the statue.  They turned the corner at the end of the street and were gone.  As was I.  But it was another serendipitous event in Italy.  And another feast day.  And today is Little Augustus Minshall’s third birthday!  He is a darling French Bulldog I started taking care of the day he came to live with Stacy and Christian.  I actually took care of him for almost a week before Stacy ever knew he was there.  Happy Birthday to my little friend!

Think the heat is frying my brain…I missed a whole day of adventure to tell you about.  Must have been Monday…in Florence.  The girls had a tour and I had promised friend Diane I would take a bracelet she bought in Florence years ago to be repaired near Santa Croce Church.  I walked over there and the store is called The Gold Market.  It was PACKED!  It was like they were having a half price sale on gold…except there wasn’t a sale….just people looking at gold jewelry.  There must have been 50 people in there!  After I got my business taken care of, I decided to walk another half mile to go to the Florence Quilt Store I had read about on-line.  By the time I got there I was a dripping mess.  Drank all my water, was hot and tired and really looking forward to the treat of the store…which evidently closed the beginning of the year!  100% empty.  I would have cried if I’d had enough liquid in me for tears!  Two doors from the closed quilt store was a cute yarn shop and I stopped in there.  She must have purchased the last of the fabric from the quilt store closing, because she had a few boxes and I got a couple of small pieces…so it wasn’t a totally waster trek.  Had the lady call a cab for me back to the Ponte Vecchio.  We were meeting at a restaurant for lunch.  This was a very nice place Evan had taken me several years ago on my birthday, and I was again there for his birthday.  Il Santo Bevitore is the name of the place.  The food is,delicious, but the service was so bad as to be non-existent!  I got there 30 minutes before the girls, obviously burning up hot.  I was seated, but the waiter took 20 minutes to ask if I wanted something to drink.  When the girls arrived, we all needed help with the menu…I didn’t know what several of the dishes were and none of us could read the writing for the specials of the day.  He was very bored telling us what was on the menu.  We got our food and that was it.  Cheri got a salad and he brought balsamic vinegar and salt.  I finally got up and got us olive oil, pepper and Parmesan cheese from a sideboard.  He never came back to our table.  Had to get another waited to tell him we needed our check.  Don’t think he likes Americans.  He paid attention to the Italians in the restaurant.  Hope they blessed him with a tip…cause we didn’t.  Tipping is very different in Italy…it isn’t expected and certainly no 20% is ever given.  Usually just a bit of change is what is left for a tip..and we have certainly been generous when we have had good service…like with Marco at Trattoria ANGIOLINO down the street.  If I ever go back to Il Santo Bevitore and see this same waiter, I will walk out.  We went back to Marco’s place for dinner again.  

Ok all caught up with my missing day.  Time to bring in the last load of clothes from the line and put out another.  

Stuff is drying in about 15 minutes.  Meeting friend Kimberly for,hamburgers tonight.  She went to the beach yesterday and fainted on the train coming home.  This heat is brutal.  Hope,it is cooler where you are!

i forgot to tell you a funny scene in Arezzo.  We were all sitting in a sidewalk cafe having cappuccino one morning and a lady was walking toward us with a French Bulldog.  I made eye contact with him and said, ‘ Buon Giorno!’ That dog lit up like a Christmas tree and nearly pulled his leash out of the lady’s hand to run to me and jump up to be petted!  It wa so funny.  Like I was his long lost best friend in the world.  His name was Tyson and he was a love bug!  Hated to see him go.

We finished up in Florence, caught a cab to the train station as it was too hot to walk, especially with all the luggage full of treasures.  The train was going to be two Hours late due to a fire on the track, so we rebooked on another and didn’t have to wait too long.  It was pretty hot on the train…it is just too hot for the A/c to work anywhere.  Hitting 100 every day…with high humidity.  Got home…took showers to cool off and went for dinner.

Since tomorrow will be Janet and Cheri’s last day we plan to do whatever they want.  Think Janet and I will go to the Bone Church and Mediterranean place for lunch, and think Cheri wants to stay home where it is cool.  We will go to dinner and bed early for their 8 am cab pickup on Thursday.  Andy and I will wash sheets, towels, clothes, etc and get ready for our trip to Poland on Monday.  

Unless something exciting happens, I,probably won’t write again until we get settled in the hotel in Warsaw Monday night.  See you then, friends!

We got up early and went back to get one last look at the treasures.  The man had brought more things for Janet and I started looking for the little ribbon tape booth.  Couldn’t find them anywhere.  Figured someone thought they were as cool as we did and bought them all.  As we were leaving, Janet spotted them in a booth and we bargained with the woman and got the whole bag – at a great bargain.  Cheri and I will split them.  We caught the train to Florence and took a cab to our B&B.  I have stayed there several times and it is in a fun neighborhood with cute shops and good restaurants and isn’t too touristy.  It is across the river from the Duomo via the Ponte Vecchio.  History lesson here:  in ancient times, the shops on the bridge were butcher shops.  The Medicis who lived nearby couldn’t stand the smell, so closed the butcher shops and put goldsmiths in them and they remain to this day.  Many of the shops have modern jewelry and a few have only vintage.  A statue to Cellini, the great goldsmith, stands in the middle of the bridge. There is a metal fence around his statue with a sign saying it is illegal to put locks on the fence.  You can barely read the sign for all the locks!  Couples put their initials on the locks, attach them to the fence and throw the key into the river…symbolizing their “forever love”.   Many times, these love locks on bridges around the world have had to be removed because the weight of the thousands of locks has compromised the bridges!  During WWII, the Nazis blew up all the bridges in Florence….except for the Ponte Vecchio because a Nazi general knew of its history and thought it should be saved.  Of course, it is an iconic symbol of Florence as is the Duomo.  

We found a wonderful restaurant for lunch and our waiter, Marco was wonderful.  After lunch we walked around and found a darling dress shop.  Getting back to the B&B to rest up, we noticed a clothes shop across the street that was having a sale, the lights were on and the sales lady was on the phone.  Didn’t realize until later that she really wasn’t open…she was there setting up everything for the BIG SALE starting the next day!  But we shopped and she was happy to sell.  I was too hot to try on clothes, so put back about 10 pieces to try at 10am Monday when they opened.  You know me, I was there before she got there to open on Monday Morning.  By 10:15  the shop was packed…so glad I had set back the pieces I wanted to try on.   We all bought more stuff there.  Can’t wait to be back in September to see their fall and winter line.  Maybe I’ll get lucky with another sale.  

Later that evening, we returned to Trattoria ANGIOLINO for dinner…where we had lunch.  We were going to have the famous Florentine steak that looked so good at another table at lunchtime.  We wanted to start with chicken liver pate bruschetta, but Marco said it would be too much food with the steak.  He was right.  We shared two steaks among the 4 of us.  They came with roasted potatoes with rosemary and we ordered spinach.  The meal was outstanding!  The meat was melt in your mouth tender and the spinach was so tender it was like a soufflé.  The Florentine steak is a giant t-bone and it is charred on the outside and very rare on the inside.  And this restaurant did the best job of any I’ve had.  

Back to the B&B for a good nights sleep in the air conditioning.  Tomorrow, the girls are going on a Dante’s Inferno (from Dan Brown’s book) Tour, and I’m running errands.  I will do the tour when it is cooler.  

This morning, we were up,early to have coffee and be off to the Antiques Fair.  The vendors were just setting up when we arrived at the first street and we started shopping.  Andy and Cheri lost interest early and decided to scope out the entire fair as Janet and I inspected everything.  The first thing I bought was an antique lace baby bonnet…and it was already marked down 50%!  I do love a bargain.  Janet was finding all sorts of treasures and having a wonderful time.  Then I found some type of ribbons.  They are about 1/2 inch wide with two initials sewn  in red every inch or so.  Some have numbers done the same way.  They are almost like the tape you would see in clothes to go to camp…but they are old and there are hundreds of different initials.  I found one that was L.R.  I bought that and one with numbers.  Janet and I went to every booth and sometimes she needed me to translate, but often not…money talks!  Everyone was so nice…pleased to,be,able to show their wares and give explanations.  I met a man who sold etchings and he was a delight.  Spoke beautiful English and said he became proficient reading books in English…and reads at least one a week.  I told him I read that much as well…also in English!  We had fun discussing our favorite authors.  I will have a list of good books for him the next time I see him.  Then we met the girls for lunch at a restaurant that had been recommended to us by the Tourist Information lady.  It was very good.  I had a pasta with wild boar sauce.  I really like that sauce and also rabbit.  After lunch, Andy and Cheri went to the Archeological Museum and Janet and I continued our quest for treasures.  I found a vintage cup towel with the initials ER…so someone I know will get that.  Also got a pair of shorts and the fabric will make a wonderful trim on a blouse…you didn’t really think you would see me in shorts, did you??  I found a wonderful original drawing of Little Red Riding Hood and the Wolf…and I collect LRRH stuff.  Now most of these booths are in the shade and the heat wasn’t too bad in the hours before lunch…but after lunch the temperatures were close to 100 degrees and it was pretty miserable.  I stopped at one of the every flowing fountains and stuck my whole head under the spout.  There were two men watching and one asked if I would like to have a shower?  I said yes!  He got up, got a pitcher and a colander, filled the pitcher with that wonderful cold water, held the colander over my head and poured the water…TA Da!  A shower!  I will forever wish we had gotten a picture of that!  We all had a good laugh and I got cool for a few minutes.  Janet and I finally got thru every booth or every street, so,we headed for the hotel.  Rested a bit and went next door to the place where we had pizza and had dinner.  We decided to get back to row one early the next day, because one of the vendors said he would bring more of the things Janet was buying.  Cheri and I decided we really liked the tapes with the red initials and wanted to get more.  We decided we could use them for trim with sewing, tying gifts or reselling on EBay!  It was a successful day for all.  I was thrilled to hear that Janet thought this fair was as good as the Paris Flea Market and wants to come again.  I’m all for that!

Today in Arezzo, we went next door for coffee, then went to Old Town.  We saw the Cathedral and another church.  Then we went to a museum of religious art.  Had lunch in town at a place recommended by Trip Advisor.  I had a very good pasta with rabbit sauce.  After lunch, we went back to the hotel to rest and recuperate from the heat.  It is about 100 degrees here daily and nothing in town is air conditioned. After awhile, we went to dinner at a cute little deli down the street.  Andy noticed a dog in a car across the street from the deli.  So, we started looking for the owner.  And I’m trying to negotiate all the search in Italian.  We thought we had found the owner…a grizzly,old guy who said it was his dog that he loved like a child.  He’s drunk, but I’m telling him needs to get his dog out.  We find a few other people and we are all looking for the owner and Andy rolls down the back windows to give the dog more air.  One shop owner offers to call the police.  The drunk guy doesn’t move.  Then, all of a sudden, after we went back to eat, the owner of the car comes out of another shop and drives off.  The old drunk was just trying to fool us.  Went back to hotel and tried to sleep in the heat.  The hotel would be great any other time of the year…just not when A/C is needed.   Tomorrow, the Antique fair starts.  I am really hoping it will be good for,Janet’s sake and she will find the kinds of things she needs for her jewelry making.  We will see tomorrow.

This morning, we got up early and went to see St. Peter’s before the line got too long.  Spent about an hour wandering around this amazing church before heading to Termini to take a train to Arezzo.  When the train track was posted, we had to walk to the farthest track in the terminal.  And it was already hot!  Finally got there, got aboard, got our little cabin and the air conditioner didn’t work.  It was pretty miserable.  We got to Arezzo and took a cab to our hotel…and it isnt air conditioned either!  At least our window in the room has a screen.  We go,out walking and find a bank that will not give me change.  We do get an ATM and it works, so we do have money.  Then we walk to town and look around a bit, going to the Duomo and another church.  We go back to the hotel and then go to dinner at a cute new restaurant called Mama Mia.  They have a Pizza Night special…all the pizza we can eat and a drink.  First, our cute waitress Tamera, brings champagne.  Then the pizzas arrive, and they are half and half.  This gives each of us a good slice of one kind of pizza, and another slice of a second kind.  Then another pizza arrives…another half and half.  Each better than the last.  Really good thin crust pizzas.  We end up with 4 pizzas and all are delicious.  Then we get dessert.  A chocolate ice cream to cleanse the palate.  The food and service were beyond excellent and we hope this cute place will be a success.  You can just feel the joy and pride Tamara feels about her new endeavor.  We go back to the hotel  with a full tummy.  Slept fairly ok with no A/C.  It wasn’t hot when I made the reservation…but won’t make that mistake again!

cant believe we left New York 6 months ago to start our adventure.

Today, my friend, Janet arrived with her friend, Cheri.  They rested a bit and we left for a Hop On-Hop Off bus tour for them to get the lay of the land.  At the end of the tour, we walked to the Pantheon with Janet taking pictures about every five feet. Their first trip to Italy and they are loving it.  We had a gelato…me a pink grapefruit, Janet a cream custard and Cheri a pistachio.  Then we went to my favorite clothes store where Janet bought a fabulous dress, a shirt and scarf.  I got a sweater.  then Cheri bought a cute pair of sandals.  We caught the bus back to the house and went for dinner.  It is Janet’s birthday and we split two desserts.  I think she had a good birthday!  Tomorrow, we leave for Arezzo.  Seeing St. Peter’s early before the train.

Evan and I got up early and joined the thousands who show up every Wednesday to see the Pope at the general audience.  It was a perfect morning, overcast and breezy.  We got about 4 raindrops. Even getting there as they opened the line, we didn’t get very good seats…you need to be right at a barricade where the PopeMobile drives by…but Evan got a glimpse of him by standing on a chair looking over everyone else standing on a chair.  After that, we went to Piazza Bologna to have lunch at the Mexican Restaurant.  This was my belated Mothers Day lunch.  Then we came home and rested a bit.  Went to Termini and caught a bus to a stop in way north Rome where we were picked up by Evans old girlfriend (from our 1996 stay in Italy for two months), her hubby and two year old daughter.  We drove further out and had dinner with hubby’s brother and friends.  Brother drove us home.  Long day and really tired.  Slept fast because we have a train to catch the next day for Calabria in the south.  

We go to Termini and catch a train to Amantea in Calabria.  For a six hour train ride.  Bring food for these train rides….four little sandwiches and a bottle of water is 18€.  We declined this meal!  Our friends, Tammy and Vince met us at the station and we drove to their rented house.  We walked down to the beach about a block away and visited until sunset…which was beautiful…and then we went to get pizzas and take them home to eat with Vince’s wonderful Caesar salad.  Slept like the dead after a long day.  On the beach there are no docks or piers.  There is a big crane like machine that lifts the boats out of the water and deposits them on the beach…reversing the process to put the boats back in the water.  We watched the fishing boat go out about 7pm.  It will catch the fish we will have for dinner the next day.   The next day, we drive up to a little old hill town called Fiume Freddo…Cold River…altho there is no river to be seen.  There are castle ruins there and a charming little town with a bed and breakfast and a couple of restaurants.  We explore the town and look at the water and beach below.  We leave there and go to another hill town nearby called Lombardia.  It is lunchtime and the town is virtually deserted.  Everyone behind doors eating lunch and napping.  We go back to the house where Vince fixes us a chick pea pasta and Caesar salad.  Now, I’m thinking that chick pea pasta sounds pretty gross…but was I ever surprised…it was delicious!  Vince knows his cooking.  He is a chef and owned an Italian restaurant in Manhattan for years.  He took half a jar of chickpeas and smashed them up with garlic and tomato paste and added the rest of the whole chickpeas.  Added water and cooked the sauce.  Poured over curly pasta, added grated Parmesan cheese and there it was…a delight.  I will definitely make it in the future.  There are several variations of this recipe on Google.  Worth trying…even if you don’t much like chickpeas…which I don’t, unless it is hummus.  So, if I like this…you know it is good!  That evening, we went to the restaurant where Vince works 3 nights a week.  Had fresh swordfish and tuna…caught during the night.  For appetizers, we had marinated carpaccio of swordfish, grilled peppers with shrimp, calamari in a sauce, smoked salmon (only dish not fresh) .  Then came a huge platter of pasta and seafood…muscles, shrimp, calamari and swordfish.  Then our fish dishes with grilled eggplant and zucchini.  Tammy had spaghetti with zucchini.  Back to the house and bedtime.  The next morning after a late breakfast we went to the train station for our trip back to Rome.  Tammy fixed sandwiches and Vince sent a jar of his Caesar dressing packed in ice.  His dressing has 22 ingredients…and is to die for!  He made it by the gallon at his NYC restaurant and makes it by the half gallon now.  We had such a good, relaxing time with these great friends, and look forward to getting together again when they come back to Rome.  

Yesterday, Evan left for home.  Sure hated to see him leave, but we had a great time together and I think he will come for Christmas and fly home with me.  I hung around the house all day, then met Liz and Jennifer for drinks and dinner.  Had a big shopping day planned for today…Monday…but it is the Patron Saints (Peter and Paul) Day in Italy and everything is closed.  Big fireworks planned for Castel San Angelo at the end of our street, so maybe we can see it if we are still up at 9pm.  Guess another quiet day at home with a bit of cleaning for friends arriving on Wednesday from East Texas.  More later…..