Today we hopped the subway to go to San Giovanni Latern Basilica. Oh my goodness! This is the oldest Church in Rome and the ‘Mother Church’ of Rome. Remember, St. Peter’s isn’t in Rome…its in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world. It is beautiful. All along the side aisles are chapels, many you can go into to pray or attend Mass. The beams holding up the side aisles have huge angel heads at the base on each side…and all the faces of these fat little angels are different. Down the center aisle are huge niches with huge statues of the 12 Apostles in each one. The altar is magnificent. Under the altar is a grotto that has a statue of St. John the Baptist for whom the church is named. I had never been to this church and it was a delight and well worth the trip. Read more about it on Google and see pictures of the church’s interior.
After the church, we went to Coin…a Macy’s type department store. We went to the housewares department and found a kitchen rug and big white candles…all 50% off! You know how I love a half-price sale! Went to pay for said items and in this country all you need is money and patience and lots of both! We stood in line while the clerk rang up and then carefully wrapped and taped up every item before bagging it. Then she was interrupted by a woman wanting to measure a tablecloth. All attention went to that, although there was a long line of trying to pay customers and the tablecloth lady had butted in line. At about this time in the States, I would have said loudly enough to be heard in 6 counties, “Could we please get another checker over here?” But since I don’t know how to say that in Italian, and I don’t ever want to be the Ugly American..I kept my mouth shut.
Then we met Simona, Vladimir and their baby Maja and went to lunch. Simona is the lady whom Evan dated when we were here going to school in 1996. She is drop dead gorgeous and just as beautiful inside. Every time I have come to Rome, she has always made the effort to come to see me if only for a cup of coffee or a gelato. She lives in a town at least an hour north of Rome and has had to fight traffic both ways. I have always thought that was a very sweet thing for her to do and always appreciated her. Their little girl is 20 months and as cute as she can be. She likes to clean things. After her meal, she got her napping and went around cleaning chair seats and the glass doors to the restaurant. We had a lovely lunch and then they drove us home. We are getting together soon again for a pizza.
Came home and fixed hamburgers for dinner, lighted our new candles, put down our new kitchen rug and now getting ready for bed.
Buona Notte…good night.

Today we split up, going to see different things. Andy went to the Vatican Museum and I went to St. Peter’s. I’ve been to the Vatican Museum many times and the tour ends with the Sistine Chapel. The last time I saw it the ceiling by Michelangelo had been cleaned and the colors were so bright and beautiful. For someone who didn’t consider himself a painter he did a pretty awesome job.
I stood in line for about 30 minutes before getting into St. Peter’s Basillica. The biggest and most ornate over-the-top church you will ever see. The dome was designed by Michelangelo after the dome of the Duomo in Florence. The canopy over the altar and over the remains of St Peter was designed by Bernini who also designed the columns in St. Peter’s square. Popes, Kings and Queens are buried within the church in tombs with huge, ornate sculptures. Pope Saint John Paul II is in a very simple tomb with only his name carved on the front. Then Pope Saint John Paul XXIII is mummified in a glass crypt and looks like he did the day he died. Although St Peter’s I’d the largest church in the world, there is not much space for prayer or sitting in pews. There are only two small (in comparisons) side chapels set aside for prayer. Just as well, because the rest of the floor space is taken up by tourists. One special thing I forgot to mention is the Pieta by Michelangelo. This was carved by him when he was 24 years old and the only piece he ever signed. I remember being able to walk around the statue of Mary holding the body of Christ years ago, but after it was attacked by a man with a hammer, it has been behind plexiglass and can only be viewed from the front. The Pieta is only one of two statues that ever made me cry because of the skill, beauty and emotion carved into the marble.
You can’t go wrong getting books at the Library on St. Peter’s, the Sistine Chapel or on Micaelangelo. Amazing feats of art and architecture…especially when considering WHEN this was all created in the 1500’s.
The center aisle is cordoned off. Looking at the floor, walking from the front of the church toward the altar, you see bronze plaques, or carvings in stone blocks. Each of these shows where the front doors of major churches around the world are in relation to the altar. This will help you in your mind’s eye realize the enormity of this Basilica. It shows how every church, Notre Dame, Chartes, Westminster Abby, St. Paul’s in London or the National Cathedral in Washington could each easily fit inside St. Peter’s. So, no matter the weather nor the wait in line…St. Peter’s is not to be missed.

Yesterday was boring also. We stayed in all day until dinner time, then went to a little buffet around the corner…a great find. I had meatballs and an artichoke marinated in goodness. Andy had grilled vegetables and an artichoke also.
Today, we went to get more copies of our passport for the Police on Feb 4. This is the third set of passport copies we have had to submit to the Italian government. Hope Feb 4th will be the end of this paperwork and all. Have no idea how much money these people will want.
After that, we went to the big Market and bought more groceries. We take a suitcase with wheels to tote the stuff back home, and I brought two reusable tote bags. It is a long walk from the apartment. I bought 5 artichokes for about 50 cents apiece for dinner. We also had chicken that we marinated in olive oil, garlic and fresh rosemary. After the chicken cooked, we poured that oily, garlic-Rosemary juice into our artichokes. Real good, but could be better. Next time, no chicken juice…just the oil, garlic, and Parmesan with salt and pepper. We will try that.
Spent part of the day booking tours to Florence, Cinque Terre, Milan, St.Moritz, Lake Como and the Dolomites for May when a friend is coming to visit. Staying in a B&B in Florence and a Monastery for 3 nights in Milan and then 3 nights in a convent in Milan. The rest of the places are day trips in small groups. We will take a train to St. Moritz.
Time for bed. Missing all of you, but not ready to come home yet.

Didn’t write yesterday because it was BORING! Cleaned our place, washed, changed sheets (still missing that top sheet), ate Chinese around the corner, came back to sew and read.
Today, however, we caught the Hop On Hop Off bus and did a tour of the high points of Rome. Got off at the end and walked to Pizza Navona. The Bernini Fountain of the Four Rivers is there and it is magnificent. Could only remember two of the rivers, although I studied this piece of art in depth when I went to school over here in 1996. Will Google it tonight to refresh my memory. Then we had lunch and walked to the Pantheon. Wonderful former Roman temple, now a Church and burial place of two Kings of Italy and Raphael. Then we went to the Church of Minerva. All along the walls are beautiful rose windows of stained glass. A huge and beautiful church. A lovely statue of St. Catherine of Siena is at the altar. Then we walked home. Tonight we had the split pea soup I have been adding goodness to for a couple of days. Garlic, onions, celery, bacon and shredded carrots were sautéed and added to the split peas. It was yummy. We also had foccacia bread from lunch…toasted pizza dough with olive oil, Rosemary and Parmesan. Full tummies, tired and ready for bed. No plans for tomorrow, but we shall see…
Sleep tight!

Today it was raining. We hopped a bus and went to Torre Argentina where my adopted cat, Raptus lives in the Roman cat shelter. She is still quite feral, but knows her name. She looked at me each time I said it.
Then we went to the Ghetto and met my American friend, Liz. She has lived in Rome off and on for 7 years. I read about her in the Dallas paper a couple of years ago and contacted her and we met and have corresponded for a couple of years, meeting when I’m in Rome. She went to SMU, majored in Italian, lived here, went back, got her law degree and returned to Rome. Really wonderful lady!
Had a terrific lunch at a restaurant she recommended…Nonna Betta in the Ghetto.
Andy had meatballs, Liz had salmon, and i had 3 appetizers. We each started with the famous fried artichokes! Then I followed with liver pate on toast and fried squash flower stuffed with mozzarella cheese and anchovies. Be still my heart. I will go back. Delicious! We enjoyed our visit and then Liz had to return for work.
Andy and I went to the Great Synagogue and had a tour and then toured the museum. (Surely you didn’t think we would miss a museum, did you?)
It can be called a living museum, because during the holy days the synagogue uses the artifacts in the museum in the services. Many are very ancient and beautifully made. I especially liked the Torah Crowns made of silver. They are very ornate with bells that jingle when the Torah is carried to the podium where the rabbi reads from it.
We saw more stumbling stones in the Ghetto. I was expecting more, but the guide told us at the time of the Nazi occupation the Jews were free to live anywhere they wanted. That came after the unification of Italy – I think in 1870. Pope John Paul II was the first pope to ever visit the Synagogue and meet with the head Rabbi. Pope Benedict also visited, and they are waiting for Pope Francis.
We saw the famous Turtle Fountain. Had a cappuccino at a little bar facing it and they had a row of turtles made from champagne tops crawling along a ledge…cute.
Then, I went to the famous Jewish bakery -‘where they burn everything! I laugh every time I go there. I keep expecting an unburned batch of rolls, cakes, torts…but they are always burned black. I always buy some biscotti..burned , of course. Someone once asked me why I go back and all I could say was, ‘Tradition!’
Security in the Ghetto was very strong and very evident.
Caught the bus home and I started a pot of split pea soup for the weekend. While the peas were boiling, I chopped garlic, onions and carrots. These were fried in olive oil with pancetta…their bacon. When that was done it was added to the peas and they are still cooking slowly. Should be delicious, especially on these chilly, damp days.
Oh, a funny thing today. Went into a tiny chili pepper shop. They combine the different chili peppers with olive oil for different strengths of hotness. They have chili concentrate, chili everything in this store. The owner asked me if I spoke Italian and I replied, ‘un po’. A little….and off he went…speaking Italian as if I were a native. I could pretty well follow the jist, but as my eyes glazed over, he asked if he were talking too fast…I wanted to say, Yes and I don’t have a clue what you are talking about…except chili peppers. I did thank him graciously for the lesson on chili peppers.
Good night all.

Museum of the Day report. Today we went to the Napoleonic Museum, one of the few in Rome with free admission. Very lovely small museum with many artifacts owned by Napoleon or his family or depicting him and his family. Furniture, candelabras, clocks, swords and paintings were among the larger pieces. Many beautiful miniature paintings and cameos as well as jewelry owned by the Bonaparte women. It is a sweet little museum and well worth a visit and it is across the Tiber, caddy corner to Castel Sant’Angelo where we were yesterday.
We got a late start as we were waiting for the weather to clear, it was a rainy and chilly day. After the museum, we again walked up Antique Row and saw a few more shops that were open today. Came home for a bit then went out for a late lunch/early supper. I had eggplant Parmesan and Andy had broccoli Rabe and sausage lasagna. Both were excellent. We brought home some of their wonderful bread to have with split pea soup tomorrow night. Everyday the little restaurant around the corner makes a different type of small bread rolls. Last week we got Rosemary and anchovy rolls and today they were tomato and onion. So good dipped in olive oil!
It’s a good thing we walk so much with all the good food we are eating!
Tomorrow we are going to the Jewish Ghetto. Will report on that domani.
Sweet Dreams!

Today, the repair man showed up only 10 minutes late and fixed at least one more stove burner. Number 4 worked every time he tried to light it- but doesn’t work for us.
Today we did Castel San Angelo. What a fortress! I climbed all the way to the top and the views of Rome and St. Peter’s were breathtaking. And you can see almost 360 degrees from up there. There were lovely rooms painted with frescoes in the Castel and a throne room and bedroom of one of the Popes. Met a couple from Nacogdoches, Texas. At first the woman just said they were from Texas..when I asked where, she said, ‘a little town you probably never heard of’. She didn’t know I was from Dallas at this point. When she said Nacogdoches I told her not only did I know where it was…but I could spell it!
Met a charming young man who works as a guide there and he speaks German, English, French, Spanish, a tiny bit of Polish and Italian, of course. I spoke to him in Italian a bit and we have ‘a date’ in December for lunch when he says we will both converse in Italian the whole time. I hope so, but my Italian is so rusty. Will just take practice.
After seeing this amazing building, we decided to walk back past the Vatican Museum and go to a Mexican restaurant for lunch. A 35 minute walk and the place was closed. So,we ended up at a Japanese restaurant. They offer all you can eat for about $18 but we didn’t think we were hungry enough for that so we just ordered off the regular menu. BIG MISTAKE! Next time we will know. There were 5 men at a table across from us…probably from a soccer team or something. They kept eating and eating, so the place might be out of business when we go again.
Came back to our place, but had to stop off for our first gelato since we have been here. Manure was good – even on a chilly and damp day.
It was our first time to really be out in the rain.
We saw a couple of nuns today in habits made of denim! And one was wearing flip flops.
Tomorrow, we plan to go to the Napoleonic Museum just across the river from the Castel. Supposed to rain for the next couple of days, but hope it doesn’t.
Good night for today.

We waited around all morning for the maintenance man to come fix our stove and microwave….we need both to eat…and you know we don’t want to miss a meal. He never came.
Went to the Post Office to open Andy’s bank account. New woman there at the desk, and she says we can’t do it until we go see the Police on Feb 4. We go see them to get our permit to live in Rome. This bank account may be the death of both of us. The lady last time told us to just come back to her office when we got the tax ID straightened out. So we walked right in and the new lady was wonderful to help us. Meanwhile, a woman with an appointment showed up. Our lady let her know she was busy with us, and the appointment lady would just have to wait. Waiting should be Italy’s middle name!
After the post office, we went over the Angel Bridge. The Angel statues were sculpted by Bernini. At the Vatican side of the bridge is Hadrian’s tomb…Castel San Angelo. Hadrian was the one who built a wall between England and Scotland to keep the Scots from attacking the Romans.
Castel San Angelo was a fortress and the Popes had a secret escape passage from St Peters to there in case of attack. It has also been used as a prison. Will have more trivia on the Castel (I am not misspelling this…using the Italian spelling) tomorrow, because we are going to visit it domani. We had lunch on the other side of the river, then wandered down a street famous for its antique shops. Most were closed…lots of places, including most museums are closed on Monday. We did meet one shop owner who had two Yorkies puppies…4 months old. They both tried to lick us to death! We had to kiss and pet and rub tummies until the man decided they had bothered us enough. Then he told them very sternly to get into their beds. They did, but when they tried to come out, he got very stern with them again, and he had to turn to keep from laughing!
As we were walking down another street to come home, we saw a beautiful building and went to investigate. It was a court of law built in 1910. There is a courtyard, not visible from the street, that has a magnificent statue inside. I think it might be lady Justice…although no scales and no blindfold. Think she is holding a sword, which might be more appropriate this day and age.
Got home and had some bean soup with great bread I brought home from lunch and getting ready to call it a day.
Another quick Italian lesson: today is lunedi Luna is moon. Monday is short for Moon day in English. So lunedi is Monday.
Buona Notte. Good night

Sheet is still missing!
We had a quiet day. Did I mention last night we fixed swordfish? Olive oil, garlic and pepper marinade, then quickly cooked the fish. We mashed up a tangerine and put the pulp on the fish and it was delicious. A mixed salad with huge meringue for dessert. Such a feast. Anyway, we heated the swordfish leftovers and ate for breakfast. Got cleaned up and dressed and went to have lunch at an Indian restaurant near us. It was delicious. On the way back stopped in a bedding and home goods store. They were having their ‘white sales’. I bought a lovely grey wool blanket or big throw (at half price) that I am hoping will warm me up at night. I have been so cold when the sun goes down.
Then we went grocery shopping at two new stores…new to us anyway. And lots closer than our Todis store and fresh market. We now have several types of stores: Todis is like Walmart…basic and cheap. Simply Market is like a Whole Foods. Pam Local is a Tom Thumb/Safeway type store. Then we have one store that carries ‘exotic’ foods…Old El Paso Mexican, Skippy Peanut butter etc. foods from all over the world. We do not intend to go hungry as you have probably already figured out.
Then on our way home we saw the cutest little puppy. Four months old, a black and white chihuahua….named Omletta….OMLET! Isn’t that the cutest name for a cute little dog. As you can probably tell…I’m suffering from dog withdrawal. I miss all my babies!
We had hamburgers tonight…little melted cheese on top, onion, salad and olives.
Tomorrow we are going to get Andy’s post office bank account opened, then go across the beautiful Angel Bridge to the antique shop street across the river. Castel San Angelo is closed on Monday. Will try to do that Tuesday. And from there, who knows.
Hope you all had a great weekend. Until domani….

We have a mystery of epic proportions. When we arrived at our apartment, or leasing lady had our beds made for us. A bottom fitted sheet and a top sheet on each bed with a bedspread and pillowcases on all 4 pillows. Simple addition. Two top sheets and two bottom sheets. We also had an extra set each. Top, bottom fitted and two pillowcases each. That is 4 more sheets.
After a week, we each stripped the bed and washed our 4 sheets and four pillowcases. After the sheets dried, Andy folded hers and put in her closet in her room. She set mine on the end of my bed with my washed towel. Since I have the tiny closet and shelf unit, I left sheets and towel on the end of my bed. This last Friday, we stripped the beds to wash and making up the bed in my room…my top sheet is missing. We have searched high and low looking for my missing top sheet. Does our washing machine eat sheets instead of socks as some washers are known to do? I even stripped my bed down to the mattress thinking maybe I made up the top sheet under the fitted sheet. You know how you can make up a bed with a small dog or cat under the sheet? They stay missing even as you call them because they are toasty warm and cozy made up in the bed. Calling a sheet is a futile effort, so I didn’t. I have looked under the bed, in all 4 drawers and on both shelves in my room. Andy has a whole wall of closets, but we have both looked in every inch of them. If we had a huge apartment, it might be hiding somewhere in another room, but we are talking small and sparse here. So, we have a mystery for sure. It just isn’t here. I thought maybe I didn’t have a top sheet to start, but I know I did because it was cold pulled over me. I added an extra cotton blanket over the top sheet and a bedspread on top of that and then my duvet. I’ve been freezing. So I know that top sheet started out with me. If you find an extra sheet in YOUR wash, let me know. It’s another mystery of life, like coat hangers multiplying as we sleep.