Friday night we went to the restaurant Buca dell’Orfeo for dinner. Had a kilo piece of Florentine steak which is the equivalent of about half a cow. The waitress had suggested a kilo and a half…but we stuck with the kilo. (2.2 pounds). The steak was so tender, grilled on outside and rare on the inside. I have never had this steak that Florence is famous for, because the cut is a kilo minimum and I’ve never been with anyone who could help me eat two pounds of beef. We also had fried artichoke and zucchini flowers. Talked to a couple sitting next to us – a forensic pathologist and his wife. They had a twice cooked beef…sounded like a slow cooked pot roast with Ribollita- a famous dish here made with vegetables, dark purple cabbage and bread…a reboiled soup. I have had that and it is very good and hearty.
Yesterday, Suzanne and I went on a small group tour. Turns out – we were the only two on the tour with our guide, Francesco. First, we drove to Siena. Had a tour with the local guide, Benedetta. Benedict and Francis…last two popes. We saw the church of St. Dominic where St. Catherine’s head resides. She was buried in Rome but a year later she was exhumed and Siena got their patron saint’s head…other parts going to other places in Europe where she is also patron saint. I seem to remember her heart is in a bucket in another church in Siena. We saw the Pallio where the famous yearly horse race is run. There are 14 neighborhoods in Siena and 14 horses and bareback riders race three times around the oval track in the Piazza. The winner gets to display their neighborhood flag for a year in a special place. This rivalry has gone on for centuries. Over 50,000 people pack the piazza for this event. Imagine 50 thousand people in a space smaller than a typical shopping center parking lot at home! Then we saw the Cathedral. I believe it is the most beautiful inside next to St. Peter’s.
Next, we drove thru the chianti countryside and went to a small winery for a tour and lunch. We had cold cuts, cheese, bruschetta, pasta and dessert all accompanied by wines. I actually liked the wines…maybe Chianti is the only red wine I like. Now for your next Italian lesson….pronouncing bruschetta correctly. Americans say bru-shet -ah. The correct pronunciation is bru-sket-ah….even going so far as saying bru-skate-ah. Get that K in there. The ch in a word is pronounced Like a K. Chianti is Key-an-ti. NOT She-an-ti. But, it is a very common mis-pronunciation. By Americans. The winery has an apartment they rent so if anyone is interested in a beautiful, peaceful retreat, I have the name of the place. About 2000 euros a month.
After lunch, we drove to the TINY walled hill town of Monteriggioni. Another beautiful restful retreat…with tourists during the day. The entire town circles the piazza. A few shops, a couple of restaurants and a church. And a wall around the tiny town that you can walk on to get the spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. After that we drove to San Gimignano. There are 13 Medieval towers remaining of over 40 original towers built by wealthy families. We spent time walking around and having a cappuccino before heading back to Florence. It is the time of year that the red poppies are in bloom and they are beautiful. I think of the red poppies and sunflowers as being so Italian!
I had asked Francesco if we would pass the American cemetery and he made a special loop back to see it, altho it was closed for the night. I had seen it years ago on a bus from Florence to Siena. You are driving along the road that is grown up with wild grasses and flowers and all of a sudden you see manicured grass all pointing in the same direction. It is so different, you take notice. Then you see the flagpole with the Stars & Stripes and the thousands of small white crosses marking the graves of our soldiers who died during WWII to save Italy from the Nazis. I would like to tour the cemetery some day. We returned exhausted and fell into bed. I spent time reading the news of the new little baby princess born to Kate and William. Just waiting today to see if they announce her name. To misquote….Good Night, sweet Princess….
Leslie, so glad you have visited so many of my favorite places. Remember the well, La Cisterna in San Gimignano? That’s where I spent New Years Eve 2000 (Dec 31, 1999)… standing on the well with a bottle or white wine in one hand and a bottle red wine in the other… or was that the other way around?!! It was a stunning place to watch the fireworks over the village. I love this area of Tuscany. And Siena! Ah, I love it more than Firenze. I’ll be there again on May 28 for the day. Am so enjoying your posts. Keep on enjoying and updating us. Ciao.