We have been here three months and have just moved to our new apartment…yesterday.  We only moved one street closer to St. Peter’s and one block west.  Our old apartment just had too many things against it…a nasty landlord who kept wanting us to pay for things that weren’t in our contract, and wanting money up front for utilities.  Wrote us a rude and demeaning letter telling us we were basically too high maintenance.  We were trying to look out for HIS investment.  We had to pay for repairing toilet that he said we broke ‘rocking’ on it.  Plumber said it wasn’t installed properly.  Half of our stove burners didn’t work.  The elevator worked maybe one day a week.  Our wifi was shut off one day…he forgot to pay the bill and blamed that on his wife.  Our electricity was turned off for two days…one story was he forgot to pay the bill and then his credit card was lost and he forgot to tell the electric company his new card number.  Whatever…we were fed up with him.  Heat never worked enough for us to be warm…and we were afraid the A/C would be awful too.  We didn’t give the guy a deposit…he forgot to ask for it…so we could move with no penalty.  My American friend, Liz put us in touch with an American leasing company, with a contract in English and it is delightful.  Bigger, more privacy, two TV’s (with some channels in English), an oven…we didn’t have one in old apartment…two bathrooms and three A/c units.  And fewer stairs to climb.  This place is spotlessly clean!  Our old apartment is spotlessly clean NOW…but it wasn’t when we moved in.  The old apartment was on a quieter street, but this one just screams…ROMA!  There are tables on both sides of the mostly pedestrian street, people eating outside on this beautiful spring day, lots of talking, children playing, pigeons looking for  crumbs, wine bottles clanking,  and an accordion playing ‘Arriverdici Roma’, ‘Volare’ and any other songs that will garner a euro or two.  We are surrounded by many really good restaurants.  Today we went to the big market and loaded up.  Several fish dishes this week…and we have decided to go back to the market on Thursday and get a leg of lamb for Easter.  Lots of Rosemary and garlic should fix it up just fine.  Will go to our specialty store to see if they have mint jelly.  If not, I’ll wing it with  fresh mint I boil with sugar and water.  We both slept well last night…very happy with our new place.  More when it transpires…

Yesterday was fun.  First, I went to try to figure out Bus 590.  It runs every hour and a half.  That can be a long wait that I’ve given up on several times.  Andy has gone riding on a Segway tour with her friend Denise, so I have plenty of free time.  When I told a man I was waiting for a bus that came every hour and a half, he replied, ‘Well, that’s useless!’

I was at the bus stop at 8 and it comes at 9…so I had a muffin and cappuccino.  It departed at 9 and off we went on a new route for me towards the Quilt Store.  When we got to the place I wanted to get off, I was asking the driver what times the return bus left…as he was telling me, he shut the door and drove on!  Wouldn’t stop to let me off until the next stop.  About a six block walk.  Well, I’m glad he did that.  On the walk I discovered a hairdresser place, and a massage place and a flea market.  At the flea market, I bought a vintage rosary with lovely pink beads.  This will be a thank you gift for the quilting lady who has taken me under her wing.  She loves pink and is a devout Catholic.  I think she will like it.  And I found a new Chinese place.  

Got to the quilt store.  Barbara was helping a customer, so I just looked for some fabric I ‘needed’.  Spent about 30 minutes on that.  She’s still with that customer, so I pull up a chair and start sewing on my squash project.  About  30 minutes later the woman finally decides on her one purchase!  It was a pre-packaged collection of coordinating blues in 2 and a half inch strips.  Barbara had shown her patterns and pictures on the computer and I had shown her pictures on my phone of quilts using these strips…including Evan’s Christmas quilt.  If she were choosing fabrics off the bolt that you have to coordinate yourself, she would still be there.  When she left, Barbara looked like she wanted to curl up and scream!  No telling how long she had been there when I arrived!  We finally got to visit and I sewed when other customers came in.  One picked up a new sewing machine she had bought and a nun bought a spool of white thread.  Other folks dropped in to say hi.  She is having a class on Monday to make fabric flowers, but we will be moving so I can’t go.  Maybe next time.  I leave and go to lunch at the Chinese place and it is very good.  In Italian restaurants, when you sit at a table…it is yours until closing time if you choose.  There is no pressure to leave.  They don’t bring you a bill until you ask for it.  So, I took my time with my meal, sent some emails and even sewed a bit.  Very relaxing.  Then I went for a haircut.  It’s pretty short, but it will grow and I don’t feel so shaggy.  Went to wait for the bus thinking it might come at 3:00 but it didn’t come til 3:30.  Next one at 5.  Got home and started packing for the move tomorrow to the new apartment.  I’m 98% packed and ready to go.  Dread getting the suitcases down our present stairs and up the stairs at the new place…but one step at a time.  Today, I’m planning to go to the flea market near our place that runs the last Sunday of the month, and having Indian food for lunch.  Then a relaxing Sunday.  Will be busy with move and cleaning old apartment tomorrow.  More after the move…

Today we went to the Vatican Museum.  Andy went several weeks ago on a ‘Skip the Line’ guided tour that was 50 euros…worth it to not stand outside in line for a couple of hours, inching your way to the entrance and having no guide.  Andy had a friend in town for the weekend, and she heard about the GreyLine tour for 15 euros.  Skip the Line and a guide.  What a deal!  Our guide was Fabio, and he was a delight.  Andy said this tour was shoulders above the tour she had.  So remember, The GreyLine Tour if you come to see the Vatican museum.  We also saw St. Peter’s with Fabio…Andy was on her own inside St. Peter’s when she went.  We got Fabio’s contact so we can get him again..he was a great guide.  St. Peter’s Square is getting ready for Palm Sunday.  There is a huge crucifix hanging from a red curtain behind where the Pope will sit outside.  It is between two huge colums that are wrapped with huge Palm fronds.  Under the obelisk in the center  of the square, they have put two very large olive trees and hundreds of pots of yellow flowers.  It will be very festive.  In the Sistine Chapel there is a scene painted by Signorelli of the Last Supper.  He always ‘signed’ his paintings by painting his dog somewhere in the scene.  A fellow painter who helped with the painting was Signor Gatti (cats).  He painted a cat in front of the supper table.  If Signorelli can paint his dog, Gatti can paint a cat!  Not to be outdone, Signorelli painted another dog…in front of the cat!  

I forgot to mention when we went to see Pope Francis on Wednesday, we had to pass thru security metal detectors.  That was a first.  Of course, Rome and St. Peter’s are under high alert because of terrorist threats. The metal detectors  have been used for years going into the Basillica, but for the Wednesday General Audience…no.  Did I mention the RAIN?  My clothes have finally dried out.  

Tomorrow, Andy and her friend are going to ride segways around Rome.  I’m not ready for,Segways!  So, I’ll be left to my own devices.  Will see what I come up with!  Alone on the streets of Rome!  Til tomorrow….

I didn’t write this when I got in…because I was a drowned rat!  We decided to forgo seeing the Pope yesterday because it was pouring rain.  Then it stopped, so we went.  Started again before we got there and NEVER stopped.  St. Peter’s was a sea of colorful umbrellas.  The Popemobile zipped thru the crowd…not the leisurely stop and start as on a nice day.  Couldn’t even see him on the huge TelePrompTer screens because of the umbrellas, so we left.  I was pretty wet at that time.  I caught the bus to go to lunch at my new quilting friend’s house.  Got off the bus and the wind whipped my umbrella inside out and ruined it.  I bought another.  Took the wrong street – but headed in the right direction – and within  10 minutes, the new umbrella was whipped to death!  Found Paola and had a wonderful lunch!  She fixed pasta that had spinach and ricotta in it, fried chicken and chicory and cake.  The cake is made of those thin pastry sheets, with cream filling and tiny strawberries.  Then we had espresso.  Her cute daughter came in…she is a sculptress and works with clay.  After lunch, and only a tiny bit drier, we walked two blocks to the quilt group meeting place.  Only about 15 ladies  showed up.  They all greeted me with the ‘double cheek kiss’ and again, I was warmly welcomed.  I had made a little hexagon flower for a lady making a Grandmother’s Flower Garden quilt and she took it around to show everyone.  Then, the ladies made fabric covered eggs.  Some were works of art…just lovely.  Some finished the baskets they made last week, and It’s sewed on my projects.  One young woman brought in her original designed quilt that had won First Prize at the Southern Italy quilt show.  It was stunning!  Hand appliquéd produce of Italy with machine embroidery repeating the produce that was done in cloth.  It had cactus, tomatoes, lemons, some fruit I didnt recognize, wheat, pepperoncini, chestnuts, figs, olives, and eggplant.  An absolute work of art!  I left in the rain and decided to,stop for flautas at the Mexican restaurant…and it was closed! Too much rain for customers, I guess.  So, I went to the bus stop and waited for 45 minutes with my limp, battered, almost useless umbrella in the downpour!  Stood in the doorway of a grocery store.  A woman brought her Golden Retiever in and tied him to a post inside specifically for that purpose.  The dog barked the entire time she shopped…except for a couple of times she swung by to stop him from barking by giving him a treat.  Anyone see the fallacy of this training tip?Then dog number two showed up.   A little brindle French bulldog.  He was tied to a different post.  Dog one barked at him the entire time…except when mom would bring a treat…but the Frenchie would look at him like he was nuts!  As if to say, ‘Cool it dog, your mom will be back…just relax.’    The bus finally came and I got home.  The streets and sidewalks were littered with poor dead umbrellas all the ride home.  It was just misting when I got off the bus, and my umbrella joined others at the trash bin.  Everything I had on was wet, so a hot shower was most welcome.  Evan called me on iCloud and we had a nice chat and I went to bed.  50% chance of rain today…hope I don’t have to go anywhere in rain today.  ‘Waterproof’ coat still wet and no umbrella.  Holding the limp umbrella to at least keep my head dry, the water poured down my hand and arm inside the coat…so,sweater was soaked too…both I had  on.  For those of you who own dryers…go hug them!   More later….

We were out at 7 this morning to beat the line at St. Peter’s.  There was no line!!!  The church was basically empty!  We stopped off for Mass and prayers at the tomb of St.Pope John XXIII.  Not sure how to refer to him.  Then we went to the Sacristy to arrange a Mass to be said for my dear neighbor who died last week.  Being in there was very interesting.  Dozens of priests and altar boys were getting dressed in their vestments for celebrating Mass.  

We left there and came home until it was time to catch the bus.  Last night when we went to Vince’s salad place, we met his friend, Tammy who is in Europe for a year and she is from Amarillo.  She called just as we were leaving and wanted to join us today.  We caught the bus and went to Piazza Bologna.  Found a ‘Dollar Store’ type of place and found some zip lock bags!  The Zip Lock company is missing a sales opportunity here in Rome.  The ones we found are not quite the real deal, but they do zip and will suffice.  Then we went to eat MEXICAN Food!  And have margaritas.  Oh my, was it good!  Can’t wait to go again.  Then, we hopped on the bus and headed back towards home, getting off near Piazza Navona and finding the Cloisters of Bramante where the Marc Chagall exhibit is showing.  Wonderful pen and ink drawings and then ones in color.  It was a lovely show…very well done.  

After that, we stopped for a cappuccino and then headed to Vince’s for another Caesar salad with porchetta.  Said goodbye to Tammy as she leaves tomorrow for a trip to Budapest.  Hope we will get to ‘play together’ when she returns.  She has been a wealth of information to us, and I think she learned a thing or two from us.  A beautiful, warm and sunny day today. Expecting rain tomorrow.  Going to see the Pope in St. Peter’s Square tomorrow.  God willin’ and the creek don’t rise… 

Stopped by an antique store where I bought a rhinoceros last week for a Christmas gift…perfect gift for the intended friend.  The owner taught me the Italian word rinoceronte….kind of a mouthful for me, so I stop by to repeat it to her when I pass by and she laughs…as do I.  Tonight I stopped in to introduce myself and visit.  Francesca is her name and she is lovely…and speaks slowly so I can follow her.    Good night!

Cleaning and wash day at the Villa.  Then we went to pick up tickets to see Pope Francis on Wednesday with 40,000 of his other best friends in St. Peter’s Square.  Supposed to rain.  After that, we stopped by the religious souvenir store, Savelli’s. We had read that they had a mosaic museum.  Been in the store numerous times and have never seen a mosaic museum..so we asked.  A lady lamed Monica took us in hand and walked us across the street to the museum.  Oh my word!  Mr. Savelli, his father and grandfather have been collecting antique mosaics for 150 years.  They were amazing.  Looking at some of them, the mosaic pieces are so small you can’t even see them..it looks like they are painted.  A piece the size of my thumbnail with the Coloseum on it.  She told us that he has more pieces in the museum in Ravenna which we will try to see on our next trip to Venice.  That would be a day trip.  Later today, we went to our friend, Vince’s restaurant for a Caesar salad with porchetta…a smoked pork piece.  Guess I had never had that…it is wonderful.  A friend of his was at the restaurant and we met her…a gal from Amarillo who is here for a year.  She was a wealth of information about things to see and do.  She told us that the Shroud of Turin will be displayed this summer for only about 5 weeks.  Making plans for that.  Made reservations tonight for the underground tour of St. Peter’s- they will tell us when to come.   Tomorrow the plan is to go to the MEXICAN restaurant…keep your fingers crossed!  Found out today that we have an invitation to visit a monastery on the island of Mallorca with a friend who will be visiting from Dallas.  She has a priest friend there and we will be his guests.  Is that neat, or what?  After all that cleaning and washing, I’m just worn out, so off to bed with my clean sheets.  Did I ever tell you that I have three fitted sheets and one flat sheet.  That’s where the mystery of the missing sheet started.  I was looking for a second flat sheet and never had but one in the first place.   Well, good night.

Those of you who know me know I can’t stand Sports.  Never have, never will.  And do you know why?  Because of the very thing that occurred today.  We had it all planned to cross town to go to the New Mexican place for brunch and a margarita.  I could taste it all…the crunchy flautas, the soft guacamole, the creamy cheese..the tangy and salty drink.  All day yesterday I could think of little else.  No breakfast today…just thinking about that food I have missed for almost three months and my first margarita in ages and ages.  I was nearly salivating as we walked to the bus stop.  Oops, no busses.  The street was blocked off.  So we walked to the next place to catch the bus that would deliver us to Mexican food heaven.  Got there…none of the regular busses arriving.  Finally, I got on one of these ‘differently numbered’ busses to ask when bus 62 would arrive.  The busses had all been cancelled and the city center closed…for the Rome Marathon!  Who are these crazy people who run in Rome?  It’s hard enough to walk in Rome on these wonky cobble stone streets.  So, totally,dejected, we walked back towards home and stopped at one of our favorite little places and had lunch.  Then home and just bummed out all day.  Sports…dumb sports…and one of the dumbest is running…just wait til those knees go…

After having an almost warm shower, we hopped on the bus and went to a building next to the Quirinale…the Presdient’ Palace.  There is a Matisse show.  Lots of his paintings, sketches and costumes for the Ballet Russe were displayed.  We saw a film in French with Italian subtitles.  One of the funny things…there was a Moroccan embroidered blouse that he put in painting after painting for a couple of years.  It was like he was obsessed with that blouse.  After that show, we walked over to see Trevi Fountain.  Before arriving there, I saw a sign pointing to an ancient ‘City of Water’…so we went to see it.  It is a complex building that was discovered during the renovation of a cinema.  It contains a house or condominium and part of an ancient aquaduct.  All underground, with part of the city of Rome built over it.  Very interesting and well worth a visit.  The different layers show evidence of Nero’s Fire, the Sack of Alarico and the siege of the Goths.  Pottery, ancient Roman glass, coins, statuary, vessels and marble columns are displayed.

Looked at Trevi Fountain…covered with scaffolding for cleaning, had lunch and headed home.  This evening, I had  dinner with the wonderful couple who owned the hotel where we had school when Evan and i came  here in 1996.  We stayed here for over two months doing a semester abroad with NorthLake Jr. college.  Evan started college, and I was one of 4 older ladies who attended.  There were 22 kids.  Fell in love with Loretta and Vittorio and their three daughters. The two older girls were young teenagers, and the third daughter was only 3.  We have kept in touch over the years and now the girls are grown and the oldest is expecting the first grandbaby in September.  I’m excited that I will be here for the event and hope to wait at the hospital with Loretta and Vittorio. We had a wonderful dinner…a huge appetizer tray with Buffala mozzarella, bruschetta, melon with prosciutto, fried zucchini, fried eggplant strips, fried zucchini flower and some rice balls.  Then we had Pasta with cacio and Pepe…cheese and pepper.  I was stuffed.  Don’t know how they eat as much as they do.  They drove me home, and headed back to their home in Manziana…about an hour north of Rome.  Great day and a great evening.  In bed to read a bit and sleep.  MEXICAN food tomorrow.    Good night…buona Notte.

We have electricity and will have a hot shower in a couple of hours!  Miracles do happen!

Where shall I start this lovely Friday morning…we still have sporadic electricity and have a Luke warm shower…and I do mean Luke!  Finally get a call that the plumber/electrician will be here at 10:30.  Andy and I take turns going up to the roof to watch the solar eclipse…I don’t take the piece of cardboard with the pin prick hole…so I see nothing.  Back down to wait on the man.  He arrives Italian time at 11:30.  Not the same man as yesterday.  He looks around, calls Gabrielle the leasing lady and I hear him telling her something about being paid.  Andy and I have already decided we are NOT paying a penny for whatever is wrong this time.  Finally he explains what the problem is….the BILL has not been paid and the electric company has cut the watts from 3000 to 500.  With 3000, every appliance works.  With 500 just a ventilator for life support, I guess.  Not the water heater, microwave, coffee pot, washing machine, heater in bathroom, hairdryer or lights in more than one room at a time.  So we call Gabrielle to find out what is being done to fix this problem and at first she tells me the landlord didn’t pay the bill…then the story changes…he lost his credit card and forgot to tell the creditors of a new account number.  Uh huh.  It was someone else’s fault last month when the wifi was turned off because his wife forgot to pay the bill.  So, we are told it will be fixed within 24 hours.  That means no shower in the morning…and maybe not even tomorrow night.  Tomorrow is Saturday…we will see if the 3000 watts are restored before Monday.  These Italians don’t work fast on a work day…we will see about the weekend.  I told a friend today, I didn’t come to Italy to camp out.  

I left and went to the Quilt Store and got some fabric for the Block of the Month Quilt the group is making.  Imagine me needing more fabric!  Had a nice visit with the Quilt Store owner, Barbara and her assistant, Sofia.  Found out that most of their quilt supplies are NOT is metric, but from the US.  That will be helpful…to me.  I couldn’t figure out the Metric System in the 4th grade – or whenever it was they sprung that foolishness on us – and I sure can’t figure it out now.  

I met Andy at the Salad Place, but Vince wasn’t there.  We are worried that he has quit less than a week after opening.  Sure hope not.  The place next door said they could do Vince’s Caesar salad, but we decided we would come back later for what we know is good.  Went across the street to a place we have been wanting to try.  Andy wanted a T-bone steak.  Too big for one person, so we split it.  As she said, It ain’t Ruth’s Chris…or Al Biernets for the Dallas folks. Won’t be needing another steak there.  We had a side of cooked chicory…won’t do that again either!  Now…a Small World event.  During dinner, an American couple come in.  We get to talking while they wait on their pizzas to go.  They recommend a new place they think we will like…it is Vince’s salad place!  They met him at a party awhile back.  

Think the rain is coming again tomorrow for almost a week.  Too bad we had to waste a half day to find out the bill hasn’t been paid.  We move in 10 days.  Thought I might have to sit on Andy today to keep her from packing! But as Evan said…Would that all problems could be solved in a week and a half!  Or as a dear friend once said,  ‘If you can solve your problem with money…you really don’t have a problem.’  He died of AIDS.  Pretty powerful thought.  I try to remember it.  

Good night all.